Monday, October 17, 2005

7 days in Iran.
I hesitated a couple of times between the idea of going or not till the moment I was force to take a detour via Iran back to Pakistan from Afghan. That i’s another story, in one sentence, the situation then make it too dangerous for me returning back Pakistan via Afghan because I don no’t want to go to Kandahar (Taliban area) and continue to Quetta, which is exactly two Japanese did that time, they both got two bullets between their eyes.
Iran stands on the way between Turkey and Pakistan and Afghan. Considering the situation in Iraq, there's no way those trans continent travelers can avoid it. But from what I heard from other travelers it's just a pass through in most cases. Apparently there are not many Iran fans.
I was lucky to get a last minute 7 day transit visa in Heart even though I have to pay a punishing fee 55$ for that, comparing with my Florida friend B. He got a straight '‘No, Americans'’ and passport flies out. At least they did not take his money this time. He had been trying hard to land a visa since India the only exception is a formal rejection with a 60 $ tag attached to it on the top of he had to wait 15 days to get that '‘No'’. Poor boy.
The first shock stuck me soon after cleared the custom. After a couple of months on bumpy roads. I felt a bit disoriented and nausea by boarding a Volvo AC bus running 100k per hour. No ass shaking... There are even some anxiety kicked in the first couple of hours. Is there anything wrong, cant' be this smooth and easy right? It i’s freaking IRAN.
Let me double-check what they said about Iran on my book. Islamic Republic of Iran, a theocratic republic is actually run by bunch of clerks in the name of God. Embargoed by US for more than 20 years. Searching my memory, the time when Iran were mentioned it will be either human rights abuse or their ambition to have nuclear weapons to blew up middle east.
How can they have the road built in North American standard? And those high rising building in Tehran, plus people seems to be contend and happy. There got be something wrong?
Okay, enough sarcasm. Just another distorted impression forced in by mainstream media.
It will be arrogant and stupid to say anything serious just based on 7 days. So here it i’s nothing but all Personal 'feelings'’.
First of all, Iranian has very strong sense of identity and appears to be living in their glory days. In another words, the Iranian considers himself the proud inheritor and guardian of an ancient and sophisticated culture. (Quote from online resource)
They are not showing too much interesting to outside world, at least on the surface. Those people I have contact with basically fall into two categories. Straight rude or xenophobia, other warmed hearted and pouring their hospitality all over me. Give your some examples, I will be given food and tea on a bus even I looks like a dirty drifter (I was.) by strangers when I was hungry. On the other side, someone will bump onto me on purpose on the street and tried to start a fight all because my appearing there is a god damn forbidden, not even mention being stopped by military and treated like criminals.
So it's bit confused and mixed feeling.
Talking about what Iran looks like, I will say like 70s. Most vehicles on the roads are made before Islam revolution. They more look like 60s or 70s. Occasionally new ones are from Kia and Peugeot. Lots of Volvo buses. There are no American ones. Just a few made in Japan. This extends to other aspects all life. Most merchandise are home made with lower quality. They sure will be much better off if there i’s no embargo.
But there i’s something I don't understand the embargo that i’s why I can get Pepsi and Coca cola everywhere in Iran?
Anyway, Enough bullshit, hope u like the pictures.
Teashop, Esfahan
Teashop under the bridge, crowded with local young peoples after 9pm. Esfahan
Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini
Fiyat made in 60s are still in service.
Old style Benze, works as a chimp. 100k+/H steady. I was wandering why I need to dump my car when it just past 230000Km milage, like cutting off a turmoil.
Backstreet, Esfahan
Street scene, Maoccasionally occassionaly some brand new Peugeot driving by pull u back to the reality, U will just felt lost in 70s. All the cars are antiques. :)
Taxi stand, Mashad
Gas tanksomething say somethng about their gas. I was outraged by paying 2500 rials (sometimes 3000 depends where u buy) for a bottle of mineral water while watching the gas was pumped out for 800 rials a liter. A simple meal (including a piece of drumstick and some rice and a soft drink) costs 20000 rials with which I can fill up my car!
Mosque of Gauhar Shad, Mashad
Mashad
On the bridge, Esfahan
Interior of mosque
Caspian sea. It took 17 hours to get there from Mashad, all I wanna to do is to dip my toes into the water (Caspian water,it's salty by the way). Call me insane. Whatever!
Deco inside mosque
Deco inside mosque
Maidan-é-Iman square, Esfahan
Great Perpolis
Perpolis
Perpolis
Perpolis
Mosaic painting in Shriaz